Teens’ idea of heaven? No-limits wifi. Mom’s idea of heaven? No-limits time with her kids, shopping and spa treats. Oh yes, and some cultural adventure too. Great food? Is that even a question?
And guess what – Stellenbosch has it all!
Stellenbosch PR’s recently invited us to draw up our own personal bucketlist of dream Stellies experiences. ‘Want to #doStellies?’, they asked.’Tell us your dreams and we’ll make them come true!’ And by golly, they did. Best thing is, they can make it happen for you too! Yep, I tell you not a word of a lie. Read to the end of the post, and I’ll tell you how.
We got some sample lists to inspire us, that had us fizzing with excitement. Just look at this:
- Perhaps you want to write about adrenalin adventures in and around the Oak City (we have bikes and segways and tractors to ride!);
- Nature-friendly family outings (when last did you feed a duck, did a fynbos game drive or saddle up for a horse ride amidst vineyards?);
- Coffee culture in the Winelands (the Stellies cup runneth over).
- The Stellenbosch vino experiences are limitless (think blending your own wine; taste with the winemaker or pair it with salt or cupcakes…
But wait there is more…
- Have you tried a vinegar or olive tasting lately?… not to mention a beer tasting on a wine farm or how about a gin and brandy tasting to warm the cockles?
- Or do you want to get cosy with restaurants with fire places? Or cook with a formidable chef, get braai tips from a braaimaster and bake your own bread.
Stellies has it all…but the onus is on you to tell us what it is that you want to DO!
Once we started our list, it was hard to know where to stop. So much to see and do!
The teens chimed in with an inspired list of their own, so we were over the moon when our wishlist materialised in a two-day spring visit to this beautiful Boland town. We asked to experience history and culture, art and design, good food and lastly, most definitely, some adrenalin adventure (the teens, not me). And that’s what we got.
Actually, in Stellenbosch you don’t really have to TRY to find art galleries or exhibitions, because art is literally everywhere. The town is known for its galleries, museums and public art installations and you could easily spend two entire days just taking it all in. History, well, THAT’S everywhere too, and it’s made daily even as we speak, since the lively student culture and debates regularly put this university town at the forefront of national news.
A great deal of effort was made to create the ideal itinerary for us, including something for each of us and some for all of us. Our programme looked like this:
#DoStellies Stellenbosch Wine Routes Bucket list Sonia Cabano
Touch points: Young in Stellenbosch
Day 1 – Saturday
10h00 – 11h00 Vinegar Tasting at Rozendal
- A family-owned organic farm that prides itself on its award winning vinegar and unique style of hospitality.
11h30 – 14h00 Stellenbosch walking tour
- Guided tour of the old town centre: you’ll hear delightful stories about the historic places we visit, including a visit to the oldest restored townhouse in the South Africa.
15h00 Check in at Wedgeview
- WedgeView Country House & Spa is located on a one hectare plot just outside the picturesque and historic town of Stellenbosch, where the luxury of a five-star hotel mingles with the exclusivity of a private country residence. Your hosts Dave and Anouk Bakker, together with the WedgeView team, will look after you during your stay and will also welcome your business meeting or other events.
Spa treatment ( Mani’s/ Pedi’s for the girls)
19h00 Dinner at Hoghouse BBQ and Bakery, Spier
Day 2 – Sunday
Breakfast and Check out
10h30 – 11h30 Segway @ Spier and Audio walking tour
- Two-wheeled, self-balancing, battery powered personal transporters: Segways are the coolest way to do a breezy lap around the farm.
- Be transported back in time with our VoiceMap Walking Tours
13h00 Sunday Lunch at Neethlingshof Wine Estate
- Named after the six flower emblem present on the manor house gable located in a beautifully-preserved Cape Dutch homestead dating back 200 years
I visit Stellenbosch often, usually on flying visits for business related purposes. It’s literally decades since I’ve taken time for leisurely strolls trough the oak-lined streets, popping in and out of shops as the whim takes me. Because shopping is a serious business that takes time to do properly, doesn’t it?
And in Stellenbosch, it’s an experience you’ll want to last for a long time. Because Stellies shops are GOOD.
Nevermind #doStellies, make sure you #shopStellies, too! You can literally shop until your bank manager drops, and begs ‘No more!’
Here you’ll find quirky, classy, wholesome, edgy and drop-dead glam fashion within the boutiques, all with that certain sassy flair that only Stellenbosch shops have. And they still look and feel like ‘proper’ shops, you know – beautiful window displays, wonderful staff, desirable goods, small and personal: it’s generally just a very humanising experience to shop in Stellenbosch. Which can’t be said for everywhere, and certainly not a mall.
‘Stellenbosse rokkies’ are famous – if you ever see a girl wearing a uniquely pretty, girly, quirky dress, you can bet your bottom dollar she got it in Stellenbosch. One-off, must-have jewellery, dashing hats, party frocks, perky shoes and adorable kids’ clothes? All there.
Our weekend escapade kicked off on a culinary and culture walking tour with Hanli Fourie, of Bites and Sites Tours. (Click on highlighted area to visit her website and find out more about the tours.)
Hanli delights in giving visitors an insider experience of Stellenbosch through visits to artisan foodshops, wine and chocolate tastings, historic buildings and sites, craftspeople and street art. I did a Bites and Sites tour of Kayamandi township once with Hanli a few years back, which was an unforgettable experience.
She’s a fantastic storyteller, and had us hanging onto her every word as we strolled through the streets. And no, I’m not giving any of the stories away, book her and discover for yourself! Buildings came vividly alive as Hanli regaled us with tales of previous owners’ lives and times, the history of the town, its roots and cultures. Along the sightseeing route (The Sites) we popped into a few places for something to eat (The Bites); a special experience, and I highly recommend you do it at least once – it has made me feel connected to Stellenbosch in a personal way, and I’ll never look at the town in the same way again.
Hanli took us to Fritz Schoon’s famous Oude Bakkerij within his Schoon de Companje venue and bought us breadsticks to nibble on while she showed us around the bakery. It’s the most astonishing bakery I’ve ever seen, built as it is according to ancient practises. Stone, wood, water, flour, fire. Zero stainless steel, and an extraordinary aura of industrious peace.
You can taste it in the bread, which made Fritz famous. It’s got soul, and it makes you feel like a better human being for eating it. The interior of the building, with a vinoteque upstairs, has a similar aura of roughhewn, simple, natural woody folksiness. I imagine it’s the kind of place where lifelong friendships are built over a cup of coffee and a plate of honest food. The teens swooned before the ice cream counter and the pastry stand, so we loaded up on pasteis de nata, quiches and handmade pies and some impossibly rich ice cream. Delish, deeply filling and nourishing on an almost cellular level, the food is one of Stellies’ highlights. Outside on the pavement, patrons seemed to be part of a stillife titled ‘The Good Life’. Yes indeed.
Schoon de Companje, cnr Bird and Church Street, Stellenbosch, Cape Town.
info@decompanje.co.za www.decompanje.co.za Tel 021 883 2187
Open Tuesday to Friday 7am to 6pm; Saturday 8am to 6pm; Sunday 8am to 1.30pm
A few shops away, Samuel Breisacher’s small but perfectly formed Le Chocolatier provided exquisite handmade chocolates for my Brampton wine pairing. Le Chocolatier sells Paleo, Banting and diabetic friendly choc slabs too, so now you know! The chocs are so pretty you could wear them as brooches, and have imaginative flavours and fillings quite unlike any I’ve encountered. Ridiculously good!
From their website: Since 2010, we’ve been producing luxury handmade truffles, pralines and authentic chocolate slabs the Swiss way in Paarl, South Africa. We believe that chocolates cannot contain any preservatives or filling ingredients to extend the volume. In order to keep our clientele highly satisfied, we source only the freshest and finest ingredients for our chocolates. Le Chocolatier developed chocolate which is suitable for the LCHF / Banting Diet. This chocolate product is completely sugar-free and is free from any soy lecithin. NON GMO and is vegan-friendly. Send your friends, family or business partners chocolate gifts, on request we will add a message card.
Click here to visit their website: Le Chocolatier Stellenbosch.
Address: 10 Church St, Cape Town, 7600
Phone: 021 883 22 00 Open 7 days a week from 8 am – 5 pm
Our tour with Hanli concluded with a visit to landmark butchery Eikeboom, which sells the best kerriesosaties I’ve ever tasted. I know so, because I drove back after our weekend to stock up for my birthday braai on Heritage Day! Their beef and venison biltong is justly famous and if you’re looking for a tjoppie for your braai, Eikeboom Slaghuis is Meat Heaven. It’s the oldest butchery in Stellenbosch, which means by now they’ve got it right. As in perfect.
Another, larger Eikeboom Slaghuis at Devon Place Centre on Bottelary Road offers bigger choice and more variety, and is more accessible for out-of-towners. Click here for info: Eikeboom Slaghuis
Next up was a visit to DeWarenmarkt, an airy, easy modern space in an historic building housing several stands selling different edibles. Scrubbed bare tables and benches fill the centre, with the chefs manning their spots along the perimeter. Almost Buddhist in its austerity and minimalism, the massive open fireplace and warm glow from the wooden furniture turn it into an inviting, cosy spot. And the food, of course. Surrounded by so many headily tempting aromas – caramelly, buttery waffles and crepes made to order, rotisserie chicken and grilling meat, excellent Deluxe coffee – you quickly realise you’re in sybaratic foodie heaven. Choose from great burgers and salads, cold-pressed raw juices, fantastic choice of sandwiches made with artisan bread, craft beer and some covetable kitchen goodies like Rozendal infused vinegars and stone ground flour. Chefs’ favourite Ryan Boon has his only retail spot inside Dewarenmarkt, good to know if you’re looking for a decent hunk of meat to take home!
It’s the perfect spot for business meetings.
Read more here: DeWarenmarkt
DeWarenMarkt Corner Ryneveld and Plein Street, Stellenbosch, Western Cape
email mark@dewarenmarkt.com www.dewarenmarkt.com Open Monday – Saturday 7 am – 7 pm
After lunch, our party parted ways, my daughter hooking up with a friend with whom she went to ‘hang’. As one does. This hanging involved much boy-watching, skinner and ‘fashion’, I imagine. My son and I drove to Rozendal Farm for our vinegar tasting and got terribly lost along the way. My GPS suddenly went quiet; I guess it, too, was lost for words at the beauty of the day. I had no idea what my 16 year old would make of a vinegar tasting; surprisingly, he loved it!
The Rozendal vinegars are infused with organic herbs, flowers and fynbos and aged in oak barrels for up to 12 years and have an intense, almost cordial-like taste. Think balsamic vinegar, and you’re almost there. One is encouraged to take small sips neat, especially before a meal, as the natural enzymes aid in digestion as well as assisting a natural alkaline balance in the body. Not only do the vinegars enhance wellbeing and good health, they add a whole new dimension to food and cooking.
From the website: On Rozendal, the family farm in Stellenbosch, Nathalie Ammann uses the traditional French Orleans Method of vinegar preparation, passed down by her father, Kurt. Vinegars are made from a Bordeaux blend of Merlot and Cabernet grape cultivars, and cultured by an indigenous “mother” from the first vinegar made on Rozendal in 1988. The vinegars are naturally fermented in small oak barrels, then infused with organic herbs carefully selected for their culinary and health-enhancing properties, and the resulting vinegar is matured for up to 12 years. A balance of sweetness and acidity yields a balsamic-style vinegar, fundamental to cooking and a robust tonic. Read more about this magical, fascinating alchemy and its curators here: Rozendal Vinegar
Address: Rozendal Farm, Omega Rd, Stellenbosch, 7600
Phone 021 809 26 00
After this unique experience, we all met up again at 77 Dorp Street on the stoep of Hudson’s, a busy burger joint popular for its laid-back vibe and honest food. The chairs and tables outside underneath umbrellas provide the perfect spot for peoplewatching, which I suspect is a fairly general local pasttime since everyone does it all day long.
My daughter had discovered Lily’s Closet, owned by young designer and businesswoman Tina Gerber. Every girl’s dream destination for party frocks, Lily’s Closet feels like a little Parisian boutique on De Wet Centre Courtyard and also sells pretty handmade pumps, bags and jewellery. I’d wager Tina will be seeing rather a lot of me and my daughter in the future, as even I found some ‘must-have’ pieces in her shop.
Lily’s Closet, De Wet Centre Courtyard, Stellenbosch. Like their Facebook page for more information and photos.
Our luxurious 5 star guesthouse WedgeView had truly staggering views of the Franschhoek Mountains in the distance. Set on the outskirts of town, it offers the perfect breathing space with tranquility on tap and all modern comforts. Charming and gracious manageress Naomi took care of us as if we were her own, and while I sipped tea on the stoep watching the sunset, the teens rejoiced in the wifi. Yes, wifi!
We lacked the time for a visit to the spa, but my son LOVED the gym for his daily workout. Thank you WedgeView!
Surrounded by vineyards and offering views of the Stellenbosch Mountains, this upscale country hotel is 9.9 km from Stellenbosch and 19.1 km from Jonkershoek Nature Reserve. Elegant rooms offer flat-screen TVs, free WiFi and safes, plus bathrooms with heated floors and designer toiletries. Upgraded rooms feature patios or balconies. Suites add separate living spaces, and some have kitchens. Full English breakfast is included, and the restaurant also serves lunch. Dinners can be arranged. There’s a spa, a sauna and 2 outdoor pools. Other amenities include a coffee and wine bar, guest lounges with fireplaces, and a garden.
Address: Bonniemile, Stellenbosch, 7604
Phone: 021 881 3525
Dinner was a vast epicurean feast of small plates at Hoghouse BBQ, Spier Wine Estate, in the company of the wonder woman from Stellenbosch Wine Routes, Elmarie Rabe. One plate after another issued forth from the kitchen, running the full gamut of flavours, textures and visual appeal. I can recall roast baby beetroots, succulent and smoky BBQ pork belly, crispy cheese arancini, Korean-style BBQ pork riblets, more smoky crispy things and then I had to call a halt.
The food really is a glutton’s feast, prepared with care to savour over many glasses of their excellent selection of craft beers or local Stellies wines. Popular for functions, yet with enough intimate spots for a family night out, Hoghouse BBQ really is all things to all men, women, kids and teenagers for sure. Got a hungry teen? Take ’em to Hoghouse BBQ.
Read more here: Chef PJ Vadas opens Hoghouse BBQ at Spier
Address: Spier Wine Farm, Stellenbosch, South Africa
Phone: 021 881 3174
After an indulgent breakfast to birdsong under the trees at Wedgview, our excitement for the morning was a Segway ride at Spier. By ‘our’ I mean the teenagers’, and by ‘excitement’ I mean theirs. Mother Cabano is known for having fallen over her own two feet in step class at the gym, and I feared my lack of athletic co-ordination might very well lead to loss of dignity, injury and more. While I settled in for a nice ‘meditation’ session under the trees at Spier, the youth were roaring up and down the countryside with newfound zeal for the outdoors. All thought or need of wifi quite forgotten. Funny that, isn’t it?
Some freerange chickens were found and cuddled, and preserved for Instagram. When one of my daughter’s friends later asked ‘Why were you wearing a crash helmet to cuddle a chicken?’ she quipped, ‘Well, they were VERY freerange, know what I mean?’ Some wistful longing was expressed for us to acquire our own Segways at home, which I neatly caught with ‘Well why ever would we do that? Spier will always be here, and remember Hoghouse is, too…It’s near, not far.’
Our trip was sadly cut short after this due to family illness, so we had to phone Neethlingshof to cancel our lunchtime booking. A great pity, that, because this beautiful historic wine estate is one of the old gems of the Stellenbosch wine route. Read more here about its 3 centuries of history: Neethlingshof Wine Estate
Asked to distill their impressions of Stellenbosch, my children each wrote a short piece. (You are free to exit the blog now, or continue reading!) Authenticity, creativity, history and diversity impressed them, they said, as well as peacefulness, energy and a sense of belonging. I thought it was worth mentioning that.
As we drove out of town, my son hung out the window with his arms spread wide, singing into the wind: ‘Goodbye Stellies we love you!’ Now that made a mother’s heart glad, and they never even noticed we didn’t need the wifi. 😉
Here are their #doStellies memories:
#doStellies – Sabah Cabano
In Cape Town’s city bowl where we live, activities are usually abundant. You can go to parks, drive out to the beach or go hiking; it is pretty much all at your disposal. However, what we do not have, is rich history and culture, like Stellenbosch. I had a fantastic time in Stellies; walking around with a guide teaching us about the interesting history behind all the buildings, taking us for tasters at the most delectable cafés – not to mention the beauty of walking through the streets and marvelling at the shops! Including the delicious delicatessen Oude Bakkerij, we went for a dinner at Hoghouse BBQ, a place with possibly every kind of pork dish known. With rich foods and warm chatter, the dinner was only a small taste of all what Stellenbosch restaurants can offer.
While doing a 4×4 Segway trail on Spier estate on our second day, we had a wonderful view of all the mountain ranges, vineyards and fauna that Spier can offer. Overwhelming smells of liquorice, honey, fresh grass and blooming flowers was definitely a beautiful sight to have in the morning!
Having only the weekend to spend, we enjoyed all of what Stellenbosch can offer: fun and beauty!
#doStellies: Guillaume Cabano
I have to admit – the whole Stellenbosch visit was totally unexpected for me. To me, Stellenbosch was always some dusty town far away where the entire population consists of old people and quiet students.
Fortunately, I was very pleasantly surprised.
Stellenbosch, in the sense of the word, can barely be called a town; it’s closer to a thriving city. It is so beautiful.
There is real energy in Stellenbosch. The student community is extremely large and active, effectively making Stellenbosch a city-large campus. The energetic youth are responsible for many thriving businesses there. Predominantly, I am referring to delicious restaurants like the Hoghouse BBQ and the Oude Bakkerij.
There are many tourists in Stellenbosch – ironically, most of them are Dutch students (hence Oude Bakkerij’s name), as if history has decided to start the cycle all over again. It allows for us South Africans, who may at times forget the beauty of our country, to be reminded why people endlessly vacation here.
We also had the glorious opportunity to taste artisan vinegar. Our guide was a mellow but enthusiastic amateur chemist. He explained that he actually studied architecture, but a local opportunity invited him from all the way in Europe to come home. This calling was his family’s overhaul of their entire farm, with entire focus going to producing artisan vinegar. He told us extensively about the health boons of a sip of vinegar before every meal, which only helped fuel my curiosity, especially for chemistry. On top of that; the artisan vinegar, infused with all sorts of wonders, was absolutely delicious.
Speaking of architecture, the inventive artists of Stellenbosch are given very generous opportunity to let their creativity run wild. Instead of some other trends among the youth of our country – these students have dedicated their time to constructing intensely beautiful and complex statues.
I repeat: Stellenbosch is gorgeous.
There is a very strong local autonomy in Stellenbosch, which means that all the shops work symbiotically with each other to deliver divine products that feel loved. From the confectionary to the bakery to the butchery; you look around and you see how they all dependently work together and you feel a resonating “Local is Lekka” feeling.
Time to delve into my favourite part: history. Though our tour was brief, our guide made no hesitance to indulge us in as much stories of Stellenbosch as possible. I find the humble beginnings of such an important place as Stellenbosch incredibly fascinating.
There are many holiday activities to enjoy in the sprawling countryside of Stellenbosch. For instance, we went all-terrain Segway driving on the same premise as a farm-restaurant-zoo hybrid. I saw plenty opportunity for a harmonious hike in the mountains while working out in the gym/spa of the comfortable guest house we were staying in. I had been dreaming of a slow day where I get to lie on a warm lounge-chair in front of a pool while sipping on lemonade. I found that moment while weekending in Stellenbosch.
DEAR READER: ARE YOU INSPIRED TO MAKE YOUR OWN #doSTELLIES BUCKETLIST? CONTACT LLEWELLYN McDILLING AT visit@wineroute.co.za TO START PLANNING YOUR STELLENBOSCH VISIT OF A LIFETIME!
We wish to thank the following who invited, treated, hosted and entertained us during our #doStellies visit: Elmarie Rabe of Stellenbosch Wine Routes, Leanne Sutherland of Random Hat PR, Hanli Fourie of Bites and Sites Tours, Dewarenmarkt, Rozendal Farm, WedgeView Guesthouse, Spier Wine Estate, Hoghouse BBQ and Bakery. It was a fantastic weekend and we are coming back to Stellenbosch to do it all over again!
